So you've been going back and forth between princess cut and cushion cut for days now. Maybe weeks. You open Instagram, see a princess cut, fall in love. Then you scroll two posts down, see a cushion cut, and you're back to square one. The worst part? Everyone around you has a different opinion. Your mom loves cushion. Your best friend swears by princess. And you're sitting there like someone just TELL me which one looks bigger already.
Sound about right?
Look, we talk to couples every single week who walk into our studio with this exact dilemma. And the answer isn't as simple as "pick this one." Because the truth is how big a diamond looks on your hand has very little to do with what the certificate says and everything to do with how that stone is shaped, how deep the cut goes, and how your specific finger shape carries it.
Nobody explains this stuff properly. Most blogs throw around technical terms like "surface area to depth ratio" and expect you to figure it out. Not here. We're going to talk about this the way we'd explain it if you were sitting across from us at diamond stores in Vancouver with a cup of chai in your hand.
No jargon. No confusion. Just the honest truth about these two beautiful shapes.
Wait - Before We Compare, Let's Actually Understand What Makes These Two Cuts Different
Because if you don't understand the basics, the comparison won't make any sense.
Princess Cut - The Sharp, Modern One
Picture a square shape with pointed corners and clean geometric lines. That's your princess cut. It was introduced back in the 1960s and quickly became one of the most popular fancy shapes in the diamond world second only to the classic round brilliant.
What makes it unique? The way it handles light. A princess cut has a chevron pattern on the bottom (the pavilion) which creates this incredible display of light and dark contrast. Some people describe it as "crushed ice" sparkle very sharp, very bright, very modern.
The thing about princess cuts that most people miss? They're cut DEEP. A lot of the diamond's weight hides underneath the setting where you can't see it. We'll come back to why this matters in a minute because it directly affects how big the stone looks face-up on your finger.
Read More: Emerald Cut vs Cushion Cut Diamond Rings: Which One Feels Like You?
Cushion Cut - The Soft, Romantic One
Now picture taking that square shape and rounding out all the corners. Softening the edges. Making everything feel a little more gentle and vintage. That's your cushion cut. Some people call it a "pillow cut" because honestly, it does look like a tiny little pillow. Which is adorable if you think about it.
Cushion cuts have been around since the 1800s way before princess cuts even existed. They were THE diamond shape during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. So if you love that old-world, romantic, timeless kind of feel this shape was practically made for you.
The sparkle pattern is different from princess cuts. Cushion cuts produce larger, broader flashes of light rather than the sharp contrast you see in a princess cut. Think warm candlelight glow versus sharp spotlight. Both beautiful. Just different moods.
Cushion cuts also come in two variations standard cushion and elongated cushion. The elongated version stretches out a bit and can actually give you more finger coverage, which plays into the whole "which looks bigger" conversation.
Alright, Let's Get To It - Which Shape Actually Looks Bigger?
This is where things get interesting.
Let's say you pick up a 1.5 carat princess cut diamond and a 1.5 carat cushion cut diamond. Same carat weight. Same number on paper. You place them next to each other on a white tray.
The cushion cut will almost always look slightly larger.
Wait what? Yep.
Here's why. Remember when we said princess cuts are cut deep? A significant chunk of that carat weight goes into the depth of the stone the part that sits inside the setting and is basically invisible once the ring is on your finger. So even though you're paying for 1.5 carats, you're not SEEING all 1.5 carats from the top.
Cushion cuts, on the other hand, tend to carry more of their weight in the face-up surface area. The stone spreads out more across the top. So when you look down at your hand, you see more diamond. Simple as that.
Now does this mean the difference is MASSIVE? No. We're not talking about one looking like a pebble and the other looking like a rock. The difference is subtle. But it IS noticeable. Especially when you put them side by side. And especially if you're trying to maximize how large your diamond appears within a specific budget this is genuinely useful information to have.
A Quick Number Comparison So This Makes More Sense
A 1 carat princess cut typically measures around 5.5mm x 5.5mm across the top.
A 1 carat cushion cut typically measures around 5.8mm x 5.8mm or even 6mm x 5.5mm depending on whether it's square or slightly elongated.
That extra fraction of a millimeter? It adds up visually. Your eyes perceive it as a bigger stone even though the weight is identical.
And if you go with an elongated cushion cut? The spread across your finger is even wider, which creates an even bigger visual effect. Pretty clever, right?
Also Read: Pear vs Oval Diamond Engagement Rings: Which Elongates Fingers?
But Size Isn't Everything - Let's Talk About Sparkle
Okay so cushion cut might win the "which looks bigger" game by a small margin. But what about sparkle? Because a diamond that looks big but doesn't have that fire and brilliance everyone talks about? Not ideal.
Princess cuts genuinely outperform cushion cuts when it comes to raw brilliance. The chevron facet pattern creates an incredibly sharp, high-contrast sparkle that catches light from every angle. If you're someone who wants your ring to be NOTICED from across the room princess cut delivers that in a way cushion cuts honestly can't match.
Cushion cuts have their own magic though. The sparkle is softer, warmer, and more spread out. It's less "look at me" and more "come closer and get lost in this." In candlelight or warm restaurant lighting, a cushion cut absolutely comes alive. There's a reason so many vintage and heirloom rings feature this shape it has a romance to it that's hard to put into words.
So here's the honest truth if you want maximum perceived size AND soft romantic sparkle, cushion cut is your girl. If you want sharp, modern brilliance and you're okay with a slightly smaller face-up appearance, princess cut will blow your mind.
What About The Setting? Does That Change Anything?
Oh absolutely. The setting you choose can actually make or break how big either shape looks.
Halo settings where tiny diamonds surround the centre stone add a visible border around your diamond that makes the whole thing appear significantly larger. This works beautifully with BOTH shapes, but it's especially stunning on cushion cuts. A cushion cut in a halo setting? That soft rounded shape with a sparkling frame around it? Genuinely breathtaking.
Thin bands also help. A slender, delicate band makes the centre stone look bigger in comparison. If you pair a thin pavé band with either a princess or cushion cut, the diamond will look more prominent than it would on a thick, chunky band.
Bezel settings (where metal wraps around the edge of the stone) can actually make a diamond look slightly smaller because the metal border covers part of the stone's perimeter. Something to keep in mind.
At SMC Diamonds, when couples come to us torn between these two shapes, we always recommend trying both on your actual finger. Not just looking at photos online. Because the shape of your hand, the width of your fingers, and your personal style all play into which shape looks best and biggest on YOU specifically.
So Which One Should You Actually Pick?
If we had to sum this whole thing up honestly:
Go cushion cut if - you want the largest possible face-up appearance for your carat weight, you love soft romantic sparkle, you're drawn to vintage and timeless aesthetics, and you want a shape that's incredibly flattering on most finger types.
Go princess cut if - you love sharp modern lines, you want maximum brilliance and fire, you prefer geometric clean aesthetics, and you're willing to trade a tiny bit of perceived size for that jaw-dropping sparkle.
And here's the beautiful part - there is genuinely no wrong answer. Both shapes are stunning. Both are timeless. Both will make your partner's eyes fill with tears when you get down on one knee.
Still Can't Decide? We'll Help You Figure It Out
At SMC Diamonds, we don't just sell rings. We sit with you, understand what matters to you, show you both shapes on your hand, walk you through 3D renderings of your dream design, and help you land on something that feels absolutely perfect.
Every diamond we carry whether natural or lab-grown is GIA or IGI certified, laser inscribed, and ethically sourced. Plus, you get our 5 promises: lifetime warranty, complimentary annual cleaning, free resizing, and a price match guarantee across all of North America.
Because forever deserves more than guesswork. It deserves confidence.
Book your free consultation today and let's find the shape that was made for your love story.
(250) 899-2290
409 Granville St Suite 828, Vancouver, BC
Forever begins with us.